Heavy duty, purpose built planters made for outdoor use. Strengthened and fortified in key areas while promoting good drainage:Drainage is one of the key elements in plant health.
Well drained planters will not bare the stress of tons of pressure from freezing soil. If an engine block can split from ice a planter will surely expand/contract to become weak, separate at joints, split and fail.
Attached is the basic premise for the [URL=http://www.newyorkplantings.com/CustomPlanters.php]planter[/URL] however we have improved upon this since.
The extensive use of long pocket hole screws holds better than we could have hoped for and reduces the need for redundant framing and "nailers" which are weak blocks used for attachment but not actual part of the structure.
Items like the trim and caps etc. can be fabricated in the shop:
*much more accurate and attractive when made on a good table saw/band saw or sliding compound mitre saw than the look of onsite circular saw "helpers"
Solid stain applied to the inside of planters can be substituted with "RED GUARD" or similar waterproofing membrane that will effectively extend the life of the wood indefinitely. The use of 5/4" decking planks with pocket hole joinery (note NO framing which is always off unless the framing woof is perfectly straight and planed.
Depending upon style, each board is jointed and then planed; often each board is cut to exact size then routed on each edge.
Either with factory style round over OR a bevel of 33 or 45 degrees.
Top caps can be used to lift planters in most instances the typical carpenters just tack on the top caps.First the frame is assembled then attached to the [URL=http://www.newyorkplantings.com/CustomPlanters.php]planter[/URL]. Again, made in the shop instead of on site. Cannot compare this work to on site work.
This allows perfect alignment, no gaps and true 90 degree joints.
These planters are built with solid 2X10 or 2X12" planks. Each board is planned to perfect flatness and straightness then routed on each edge, cut down to exact sizes.
Note that our method shows no fasteners but traditional hiding of fasteners is weak since nailers or small framing is used. Framing wood is never perfectly straight: The pocket hole joinery uses screws up to 75% longer for added grip and clamping. keeping wood from warping over time.
Edges Such as above will not sit straight and will have wide gaps/seams if the wood planks are not first planed and jointed.
Then, where edges meet the routing makes the joined edges look clean.
This is a planter without the marine laminate liner.
The 3/4" marine laminate is designed to hold up in continuous wet environment, even saturated with water and not separate.
Coated marine grade laminate is even more impervious to moisture.
Even though marine laminate is acceptable and even specified by architects and builders we have decided to use the 5/4" thick wood OR
2" thick solid wood bottoms [URL=http://www.newyorkplantings.com/CustomPlanters.php]planter[/URL](pressure treated or cedar #2 or#3 to save weight)
The solid bottoms are held off the ground approx 1-2" to allow for air to pass beneath.
NO HOLES are drilled in these solid wood bottoms. Drilling holes in bottoms will weaken the bottoms, shorten the life of any wood, solid or laminate by allowing water to enter the end-grain.